Infrared Temp Gun vs Digital Probe Thermometer
One reads surfaces, one reads air, and the stick-on dial gauge that came with the tank reads neither usefully. What to measure and how.
The short version
You need both, and together they cost less than one bad month of guessing. An infrared gun reads the surface temperature of the basking rock, which is the number that decides whether your dragon can digest food properly. A digital probe thermometer reads ambient air at the cool end, which is the number that tells you whether a gradient exists at all. The one thing to throw away is the round stick-on dial gauge supplied with most starter kits. Those read the glass they are stuck to, respond slowly, and are commonly out by a wide margin.
At a glance
| Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774 | Zoo Med Digital Thermometer and Humidity Gauge | |
|---|---|---|
| Measures | Surface temperature, instantly | Air temperature and humidity |
| Best used on | The basking platform | The cool end |
| Continuous reading | No, spot checks | Yes |
| Reads the animal's basking spot | Yes | No |
| Tells you if a gradient exists | With several readings | At one point |
| Replaces a dial gauge | Yes | Yes |
Choose the Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774 if…
Use the infrared gun for the number that matters most, the temperature of the surface your dragon lies on. Take the reading at the exact spot the animal uses, not the middle of the enclosure, and take it after the lamp has been running for at least half an hour. Walk the length of the enclosure taking readings every few inches and you will see your gradient as a series of numbers, which is far more informative than any single figure.
Check Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774 on Amazon
Choose the Zoo Med Digital Thermometer and Humidity Gauge if…
Use a digital probe unit for continuous ambient readings, sited at the cool end where you want to confirm the animal has somewhere to escape the heat. A model that records minimum and maximum is worth the small extra, because it catches the overnight low and the afternoon peak you were not there to see. Place the sensor at the height the animal occupies rather than at the top of the enclosure, where the air is always warmest.
Check Zoo Med Digital Thermometer and Humidity Gauge on Amazon
Related
Comparison based on published manufacturer specifications and the general consensus of owner reports. We have not tested these products side by side. Confirm current specifications and prices before buying. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
Deciding on a specific model? We review the REPTIZOO dimming PID thermostat review, Exo Terra Sun Glo halogen basking spot lamp review and Etekcity Lasergrip 774 infrared thermometer review in full.
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A T5 10.0 UVB Fixture, the One Thing You Cannot Skip
Metabolic bone disease is the most common preventable illness in captive bearded dragons, and it comes down to inadequate UVB. A linear T5 tube across the basking side does what a coil bulb cannot, and the tube needs replacing roughly annually even when it still lights up.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is wrong with the dial gauge that came with my tank?
It reads the temperature of the glass it is stuck to rather than the air, it responds slowly, and independent comparisons have repeatedly found these gauges reading well away from actual conditions. Keepers have discovered enclosures many degrees off target while a dial gauge sat happily in the middle of its range. Replace it rather than calibrating around it.
What readings should I be aiming for?
As a general guide for bearded dragons: a basking surface around 95 to 105 degrees Fahrenheit for an adult, a little higher for a growing juvenile, a cool end around 75 to 85, and an overnight drop into the 65 to 75 range with the lights off. Humidity is usually kept low, in the region of 30 to 40 percent, since this is an arid species. Confirm targets for your individual animal with a reptile vet, particularly if it is unwell.
How often should I check temperatures?
Glance at the ambient reading daily and take proper surface readings weekly, plus any time you change a bulb, move the basking platform, or the weather turns. Bulbs lose output as they age and a rearranged enclosure can move the basking spot several degrees without anything looking different. Most temperature problems creep in rather than arriving suddenly.
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